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Monday, May 24, 2010

Travel To Colorful Guatemala

Guatemala is of course known for it's many ruins of the Mayan Civilization, most renowned being Tikal.  However, if you go beyond the tourist spots and travel to villages and local markets you will discover a colorful heritage.  Color in the beautiful weavings, color in the fruits and vegetables of the markets, even the buses are colorful, and wonderful people who have endured 30 years of civil war and the poverty it created.

I fell in love with this country and it's beautiful people when I visited in 2008.  I traveled with Overseas Adventure Travel on a trip called The Route Of The Maya,   ( be sure to check the end of this post to see how you can save $50-$100 per person on your first trip with this company)   but I came away with so much more than the knowledge and experience of seeing the Maya temples and ruins of their complex cities.  I learned about the history of these noble people, and the precarious situation of their present existence.

After visiting ruins in El Salvador and Honduras, we spent most of our time in Guatemala, visiting a school, a macadamia nut farm, Antigua, and Lake Atitlan, visiting villages near these places as well as a school along the way.  I had previously taken trips with this same company to Costa Rica and to Ecuador, but this time with our fantastic trip leader Bronson Torres, it became an even more personal experience.

Even the border crossing from Honduras into Guatemala was a memorable experience.  Here were hundreds of 18 wheelers parked along the road for miles in both directions waiting to cross.  One driver had slung a hammock beneath his truck for a nap, some may wait here for days.  We got through fairly quickly after Bronson showed our passports and greased some palms.




The bus ride through the countryside was enjoyable, as Bronson filled us in on the history of his country, and pointed out the farms of the current Mayan people on the slopes of the mountains.  Big foreign corporations have taken over the more fertile flat farming areas.


We took a tour of Guatemala City upon arriving, seeing both the modern downtown, including a replica of the Eiffel Tower and beautiful buildings sporting Mayan symbols and replicas of carvings thousands of years old.

A statue of a man playing an ancient ball game was especially interesting as we had spent 2 days at Copan Ruinas in Copan, Honduras where the most complete reconstructed ball court was a favorite site, along with the Hieroglyphic Staircase nearby.




The older part of the city has beautiful colonial buildings surrounding a central plaza.  The main government buildings are housed here.  We also went through the poorer sections of the city, where even here many buildings are colorfully painted.

It was interesting to hear Bronson describe how things currently work in his country.  So much needs to be done to modernize things in the cities since the end of the war.  Everyone must personally visit the utility company building and pay their bill in cash.  There is a very small social security provision for older people who must personally collect their small payment each month.

Small strides have been made to improve the economy of the country, they do rely heavily on tourism.  Many of the Mayan people living in outside villages dream of coming here to be more prosperous, but most soon learn there is poverty here as well.

As for my opinion, the people in the villages have a beautiful place to live, no matter how humble their homes.  They are taught skills to sustain themselves by weaving, carving, farming and gathering.  Unfortunately, I don't know if their lives can continue in this way if they cannot somehow regain their ancestral farmlands, as their farms on the hillsides are frequently washed away.  They are resourceful in weaving colorful materials which are becoming more commercial, being sold by the yard and made into more modern clothing.  They also make beautiful baskets and carvings of wood and jade, as well as furniture.  I hope they can maintain their village lives, I as I am sure many others would love this peaceful, self-sustaining lifestyle.



After leaving Guatemala City, we rode through the country on the way to our next destination, Antigua..  We stopped to visit a macadamia nut farm, Valhala, which was established by a man from California.  It was so amazing to see how he had built and improvised his own equipment to shell, dry, and sort the nuts.

As we traveled, we saw many big farms with tall corn and huge carrots, it made me sad to see the Mayan people working in these fertile fields for foreign corporations, which once were farmed by their ancestors.  That is my son, Trace pictured with carrots just harvested.

Antigua was the first capital city of Guatemala, established by the Spanish in 1543.  It was partially destroyed at least twice by earthquakes and only recently is being rebuilt.  Some buildings have only partially been reconstructed and others have been refurbished as glorious hotels and restaurants.  On one of the evenings while we stayed here, my aunt Kay and I went to dinner and a fun folklore show.  This fountain was built sometime in the 1500's and survived the earthquakes, this beautiful building has hand painted tiles on the ceiling.

The central plaza in the city has an interesting fountain surrounded by colonial buildings.
Antigua has several magnificent churches. 

                                               
 The main street of the city has a gorgeous arch stretching across with a clock and bell tower.
We visited two villages while staying in Antigua.  Spending most of one day at a Kindergarten, then having lunch in the homes of students.  The students dressed in their finest traditional clothing and treated us to a program, also singing their national anthem, the longest of any country.
My son Trace, myself and 4 others visited a nice home for the area, the husband and father worked in construction and was able to build a nice home for his family as well as his mother.  They had an electric stove and a television, not ordinary luxuries for this area.

We were fortunate to happen into a parade and celebration in one village while passing through.  The characters interacted with spectators, the costumes were excellent and the music was very enjoyable.
Also while in Antigua we toured a co-op where some of the most talented weavers sell their beautiful creations. 
 Believe it or not, the Mayan people, especially in the villages wear these beautiful clothes daily, even working in the fields.  The traditional back strap loom is shown here, they also use larger looms, and foot looms to create yards and yards of fabrics.  The intricate patterns, florals, and birds require a knot off and change of thread for each color.
On our final day in Antigua we were excited to find we were going to board one of the colorful "Chicken Buses" we had seen everywhere.  So we proceeded to the parking area to see the morning spectacle of "screamers" vying for passengers to different areas.  We boarded the bus to Santa Maria, village above the city that was having their monthly local market day.

Santa Maria sits at the foot of one of the many volcanos in the area, and has a lovely church.  It was so nice to browse the goods for sale, since this was a local market, we were the few outsiders there, and were not approached by anyone to buy. 
I did buy a beautiful woven and embroidered belt, and wandered through the town a little, happening upon two little girls, one had just gotten some new shoes she had been carrying in her apron, until taking them out to show to her friend.

Everything imaginable was for sale here, colorful fruits, vegetables, woven cloth, belts, embroidered aprons, t shirts, sno cones, shoes and more.

All too soon it was time to bid farewell to Antigua with it's beautiful windows and the wonderful friends we had made.




Although it seemed our stay in Antigua and visits to the surrounding villages seemed much too short, we were exited to continue our journey.  As we rode toward the next destination of Lake Atitlan we passed more farms and volcanos, stopping to visit a religious center in San Andras Itzapa, where prayers are made to Hermano Simon.  Some make elaborate offerings, which are burned in the courtyard for those who are suffering from illness.  On the street leading to the shrine are vendors selling candies, candles and powders to offer up.  The different colors have significance as to the cures they provide.  One interesting lotion promised to stop nasty talks.





Lake Atitlan is big and beautiful, the deepest lake in the western hemisphere, and is surrounded by several villages.  As you would guess, the main transportation is by boat, but roads do exist also
We stayed in the largest community, Panajachel is actually more than a village, and closer to the main highway.  We stayed in a lovely hotel here, but our focus was the people, nature and discovery.  We visited Santiago a village across the lake at the foot of one of the volcanoes surrounding the lake.  Here we met Roberto, a boy in his early teens who is the man of his family who earns money by decorating pens with thread, making beautiful designs and personalizing them with names.  Many families here are without a husband and father, this village was terrorized from the mid-80s to 1990 with many being killed in their homes and fields including women and children. 






We were also very fortunate to meet a gracious Mayan woman who was the model for the 25 centavo coin.  She as many others in Santiago still wears the cinta headress, which is a long narrow woven material wrapped around and around.
At the time we were there, the traveling shrine of Maximon was in Santiago.  We rode a local taxi pickup through the streets and then walked to the home hosting Maximon. 
 We also visited the church here built in 1547, it was interesting to see how the people have integrated their ancient beliefs into Catholocism.  Such as this crucifix adorned with feathers and weavings.
We spent a day in San Antonio Palopo, there is a textile co-operative based here where wonderful clothing and fabrics can be purchased.  Beautiful painted ceramics were also available.

The men and boys of this village wear kilts, such as this older gentleman.  We visited him, his wife, daughter and granddaughter in their home.  Here he is pictured by the older home he built himself many years ago. 
 It now serves as their kitchen and they live primarily in the stucco home pictured behind their granddaughter. 
In the larger home, they sleep, he weaves baskets, and his daughter and wife weave textiles.  On they day we were there he was weaving a basket and his wife was pounding beans to separate them from the pods.



Of course our trip had to include some exciting adventures as well.  Just outside of Panachajel is the Atitlan Nature Reserve, with hanging canopy bridges and a canopy tour with 8 zip lines.
Some of our group participated with trepidation, but all enjoyed the exhilirating experience.

We left the Lake Atitlan area and made our way to Guatemala's largest Mayan site Tikal.  We got up very early the next morning to climb the wooden steps up Temple 4 in the darkness.  Sitting there on the cold rock of the temple we waited for sunrise to shed light on this past civilization.  It was a wonderful experience listening to the jungle awaken and greet a new day.
Gradually Temple 1 in the distant grand plaza became visible for a few fleeting seconds before once again disappearing in the morning fog. 

Tikal National Park covers over six square miles and has over 3,000 structures, construction of this, the seat of the Jaguar Clan began about 600BC, continuing for about 1500 years, and at it's peak approximately 100,000 people occupied the area.

  After climbing back down from Temple 4, we walked back through the site with a Park Naturalist.  He explained some of the history of the Peten area telling us of working collecting  chicle and allspice.  Allspice is actually a tree that grows here, the bark is used as a seasoning.  He also told us of the religious significance of the Ceiba Tree, the national tree of Guatemala and was sacred to the Mayans, they consider it to be the axis of the earth.

We continued along paths through the jungle, being repeatedly treated to the sight of structures suddenly visible in the dense vegetation, as well as seeing numerous toucans, howler monkeys and other birds.   Only a small percentage of this huge remnant of the Mayan civilization has been uncovered and excvation continues.  Many structures are left partially covered purposely to protect the limestone from deterioration.  Most structures are symetrical, so one side mirrors the other, and no money and effort is spent many times to uncover both sides.  We saw many structures still covered with years of dirt and overgrowth.


Gradually we made our way back to Temple 4 to see it in daylight and again climb the stairs to just below the comb.  The comb was being stabilized so it was not particularly photogenic, however at over 200 feet this is the tallest structure.
The call of the Howler Monkeys can be heard constantly, and we saw many also, like this guy who liked to greet everyone as they climbed the stairs.

The view from Temple 4 was impressive in daylight , Temples 1 and V can been seen above the canopy of green, and we lingered here awhile taking in the view before moving on to walk to the Grand Plaza, passing other structures along the way.
                                  Rear view of Temple 1 from top of Temple 4


A good example of Altars and Stelae before a small temple

The Grand Plaza is the most spectacular part of the park, yet has newer structures which were built over a shorter period of time.  Here Temples 1 and 2 both 120-130 feet high face each other across a courtyard which at one time was polished white stucco, as was the outside of the structures.  The construction of this complex was well thought out and used for ceremonies and performances, having accoustics allowing all to hear. There was even a bandstand area on the side of Temple 2.  If you stand in the middle and clap, the sound bounces from one temple to the other, and actually makes the sound of the call of the Quetzal.

We were finally treated to a view of the front of Temple 1, which we had seen while standing on Temple 4. 


Climbing a steep ladder we were able to view the complex from just below the comb of Temple 2.

If you look closely on the left top of the comb, you'll see this guy taking in the view also.


After leaving the wonders of Tikal, we headed deep into the jungle near the northern border to visit the partially restored site of Yaxha

Our trip leader, Bronson had become acquainted with a family who lives along the road to the site and asked if we would like to visit and take some food to them.  This woman is raising 5 children alone in a bamboo home, her 12 year old son being their only support.  Except the young girl with Down's Syndrom, all of the children attend school.  They subsist on a small garden, and what they can hunt and gather, the son also sells or trades furs.  We stopped at a small market on the way and purchased staples for the family, as well as contributing snacks and things we had with us.

As some of us waited in the bus, we saw these ladies coming up the hill from a lake after finishing their laundry and fetching water for their households.  I was amazed throughout the trip at their ability to carry so much on their heads.  One young lady we watched carried a full 5 gallon bucket on her head.
Although they live simply and endure hardship, there was a lot of love in this cozy home set in a magnificent jungle.

This family does not live near water and their only transportation is this bicycle, so they gather water with a tarp and fill one of the barrels which was provided to all area families by the producers of the show Survivor which was filmed in a portion of Yaxha in 2005.

Their kitchen is simple but adequate,
 the bamboo walls provide a place to dry hides to sell or trade.
The sleeping area is a little crowded for 6, but they have worked hard to make their home liveable.
The children were cheerful and the entire family was welcoming, hey, these kids have a pet spider monkey (my granddaughter is ready to move there so she can have one too), and the boy built a lovely little tree hut for it, and a cage for a baby porcupine he had captured.  We bid them good-bye, leaving corn meal, beans, flour and other food, and continued down the dirt road to the site of Yaxha.
The two younger girls returned from school, just after taking this photo.


Yaxha is being slowly restored by a German team financed by The Deutsch Bank, this is the Temple 216, one of 9 known Pyramid Temples at the site.

Shown here by Bronson is a statue of a Mayan dwarf, they were revered by the civilization and taken from their families and raised by the royals.
This illustration at the site shows a magnificent procession, the ruler being carried along one of the roads.  The Mayans and Incas both had extensive, wide paved and sometimes walled highways throughout their kingdoms.


We climbed another stairway to the top of the temple where Kay spent a moment meditating.
Guatemalan Motorcycle Police escorted us through the remote region to the border of Belize where we visited the Mayan site of Lamanai and then 
spent the final days of our trip relaxing on the beach.


I highly recommend Overseas Adventure Travel.  I have taken 3 trips with them, they use educated, trained, and very knowlegeable locals as their trip leaders.  These professional and personable employees provide an intimate experience in their home country.

Because each tour is limited to 12 - 16 travelers, it is possible to visit places larger groups could not go, and experience more personal contact with the people.

You can enjoy similar experiences as I did and more for as low as $128 per day on this trip "The Route of The Maya.

For $50 - $100 off of your first trip give the following information when reserving your adventure.

Karen M Robinson
Customer # 000673517G

1 comment:

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